Difficulty: Intermediate. Peggy requires no shaping by increases or decreases, but is made up of a 10 row lace pattern. It is an appropriate project for someone beginning in lace, and a very simple project for anyone already familiar with knitting lace.
Pattern Inspiration: There have been a lot of bundled, drapey, ruched looks on the runway and in the stores. I thought it might be fun to try something that would enable the wearer to shift pockets and drop necklines after the whole garment is knitted, and then change back if there is any regret. The tunic, with all of its lacy holes, is the pegboard, and the knitter can create any size additional pieces – these are just scarves and icords – to attach anywhere in all different ways. The icords with buttons become the seams, and these can be knitted any length.
The lace pattern chosen has the look of a bias piece without the bias edges, so any lace with straight edges can be substituted, especially if the front and back are worked separately and then seamed up the sides.
Photographers: Quinn Bautista & Anna Wilcoxon/Model: Caroline Bautista
S [M, L, XL, XXL] (shown in size S)
Sizing information from yarnstandards.com.
Ysolda Teague provides a very extensive size chart on her blog.
Chest: 31 [34.25, 37.75, 41, 48] inches
Length: 20 [21, 22, 24, 26] inches
Plenty of positive ease is recommended, since this is a garment intended for layering. The model wears it with up to 3 inches positive ease. Although there is no shaping, the bias look of the lace, and its drapey quality helps prevent it from looking boxy. It is best to make the garment larger if in doubt about size, because there are plenty of ways to fit the tunic later with ruching and draping.
[MC] Classic Elite One Fifty [100% fine merino; 150 yd per 50 g skein]; 7203 Pewter; 4 [4, 5, 6, 7] skeins.
Classic Elite One Fifty is listed as a sport weight yarn, but was chosen because it feels much like a DK weight, but is very light. Any DK or fingering weight yarn can be substituted, since the lace pattern can easily be scaled up or down easily.
2 US Size 6/4mm double pointed needles
3 – 5/8” buttons, or amount desired.
14 sts X 19 rows = 4″ in pattern, blocked
MPMK’s list of abbreviations.
The pattern starts at the neckline as two separate pieces and is joined and worked in the round to the hem. The neck is finished by creating separate pieces and attaching them later after all knitting is finished.
When working the lace flat, please note that the first 2 sts in Row 6 are purled and the bordering purl stitch at the end of every wrong side row is left off in this row. This is also the row to watch when working in the round. Row 30 [40, 40, 40, 50] in each flat lace panel decreases the piece by the 2 bordering sts so that the lace can be worked continuously in the round.
ML: Make loop. Knit 1, but do not drop stitch from left hand ndl: bring yarn between needles to front of work, wrap yarn once around left thumb to create a loop, bring yarn between needles to back of work, and with right hand ndl, knit same stitch a second time, sliding stitch from ndl as usual. Pass first st over the second. (Crazy Aunt Purl has a great photo tutorial on the Make Loop stitch here.
With circular ndl, CO 56 [62, 68, 74, 86] sts using a cable cast-on.
Row 1 (RS): K1, *K4, K2tog, YO; rep from * to last st, end K1.
Row 2: P1, *YO, P1, P2tog, P3; rep from * to last st, end P1.
Row 3: K1, *K2, K2tog, K2, YO; rep from * to last st, end K1.
Row 4: P1, *YO, P3, P2tog, P1; rep from * to last st, end P1.
Row 5: K1, *K2tog, K4, YO; rep from * to last st, end K1.
Row 6: P2, *P4, YO, P2tog; rep from * to end.
Row 7: K1, *K1, YO, K3, K2tog; rep from * to last st, end K1.
Row 8: P1, *P2tog, P2, YO, P2; rep from * to last st, end P1.
Row 9: K1, *K3, YO, K1, K2tog, rep from * to last st, end K1.
Row 10: P1, *P2tog, YO, P4, rep from * to last st, end P1.
Rep rows 1 – 10, 1 (1, 2, 2, 3) more times. Work rows 1-9 once more. Piece meas approx 7 [8, 9, 10, 11]” from CO. Next row (WS): P3tog, YO, P4, *P2tog, YO, P4; rep from * to last 6 sts, end P2tog, YO, P3, P2tog. [54 (60, 66, 72, 84) sts rem]. Break yarn, leaving a 10” tail. Hold on ndl.
Work as for front (sts from front can be kept on the ndl while back is worked). If a larger armhole is desired, additional repeats of the flat lace panel can be added before the join.
Join for Body
Being sure pieces are facing the same direction (ie with RS of each piece facing), place marker and join work working in the round. [108 (120, 132, 144, 168) sts].
Rnd 1: *K4, K2tog, YO; rep from * around.
Rnd 2: *K3, K2tog, K1, YO; rep from * around.
Rnd 3: *K2, K2tog, K2, YO; rep from * around.
Rnd 4: *K1, K2tog, K3, YO; rep from * around.
Rnd 5: *K2tog, K4, YO; rep from * around.
Rnd 6: Sl 1 pwise wyib, YO, K4, *K2tog, YO, K4; rep from * to last 6 sts, end K2tog, YO, K4; sl 1 pwise wyib, remove marker, place slipped st back to LH ndl, K2tog, (working last st of rnd with slipped st at beg of rnd), pm.
Rnd 7: *K1, YO, K3; K2tog, rep from * to end.
Rnd 8: *K2, YO, K2, K2tog; rep from * to end.
Rnd 9: *K3, YO, K1, K2tog; rep from * to end.
Rnd 10: *K4, YO, K2tog; rep from * to end.
Rep rnds 1-10 until entire piece meas 20 [21, 23, 25, 26] inches from join, or desired length. BO all sts.
With circular ndl, CO 32 sts using a cable cast on. Work rows 1-10 of pattern as for Front, until piece meas 31” from CO (or desired length), end after WS row. BO all sts.
With dpns, CO 3 sts. Row 1: *K3tbl, slide stitches to the opposite end of ndl, and pull yarn tightly across the back; rep from * until cord meas 29”, or desired length. AT THE SAME TIME, in the first row and every 11th row, k1tbl, ML (see above), k1tbl. BO all sts.
I-Cord with Buttons
Work as with I-Cord Tie, but before CO, string shaft buttons onto yarn as you would with beads. AT THE SAME TIME, in the second and every 12th row, add a button to the middle st. Continue until piece meas 4 [ 4, 5, 5, 6]” or desired length.
Weave in ends. Block to attain measurements and to open lace pattern. Need help with the icord “seams”? Check out Caroline’s video tutorial: